Process for producing pattern effects on extensible textile fabric, and products therefrom



Oct. 16, 1962 E. w [58 3,058,192

E PROCESS FOR PRODUCING PATTERN EFFECTS ON EXTENSIBLE TEXTILE FABRIC, AND PRODUCTS THEREFROM Filed March 26, 1958 INVENTOR ERNST VI/E/JS.

ATTORNEYS.

v Ernst Weiss, Wattwil, Switzerland, assignor to Heberlein Patent Corporation, New York, N.Y., a corporation of New York Filed Mar. 26, 1958, Ser. No. 724,128 13 Claims. (Cl. 28-74) This invention relates to a process for producing pattern effects on extensible textile fabric, containing crimped synthetic polymer yarn such as nylon and other like yarns; and to the products resulting therefrom.

The principal object of the invention is to provide a simple process for producing on an extensible textile fabric novel pattern effects, and to produce a novel product thereby.

In carrying out the process of my invention I stretch an extensible textile fabric containing a crimped synthetic polymer yarn such as polyamide, polyester or like yarn, and permanently fix the so stretched fabric in a pattern. The crimped yarn of the extensible fabric may be made by known processes, particularly by high twisting, heat setting the yarn as so twisted, and detwisting.

Other methods for making such crimped yarns are referred to below, as well as the various types of polymer which may be employed in the production of crimped yarns. The stretching of the fabric is sufficient to cause the yarns to become thin and lose their bulk. A hardenable coating may then be applied to the stretched fabric, followed by heating or other means of hardening this coating. Instead of applying such hardenable coating, I may fix the fabric in a pattern by strongly pressing and heating it under embossing roller pressure, or similar pressure.

By either step I thereby produce a fabric with a permanently fixed patern containing threads which are thinner and less bulky than the background of the fabric. I may also apply a water-soluble finishing agent, stretch the fabric and then dry it, in order to temporarily fix the stretched fabric followed by printing the stretched and temporarily fixed fabric with a hardenable coating or other means to locally permanently fix the applied watersoluble finishing agent. After printing the fabric is relaxed, and may be washed, steamed or otherwise finished.

As above stated, the fabric is composed or largely constituted of synthetic crimped polymer yarns, crimped in accordance with the above mentioned method, or such crimping may be effected by stulfing the yarns in a crimping chamber and compressing them under the influence of heat and moisture. Moreover, the crimp can also be produced by drawing the yarns over a sharp edge in a well known manner. The extensible crimped yarns consist primarily of polyamides, as stated, namely of polyhexamethylene adipamide or polycondensates of E-caprolactam or of ll-aminoundecanoic acid. The crimped yarns may also consist of other synthetic organic textile fibers, i.e., those of polyvinyl base (polyacrylonitrile, polyvinyl chloride, etc), or those of polyesters (polyethylene glycol terephthalate).

Woven or knitted fabrics of such crimped yarns are very extensible, and due to the bulk of the crimped yarns also have a soft hand and an opaque character.

I have found in accordance with my invention that completely new pattern effects on such textile fabrics can be produced. Thus interesting fashion effects can be created especially for womens wear.

The strong stretching of the fabric causes the crimped yarns to become thin and lose their bulk. If one locally permanently fixes the fabric in this state, one obtains relatively translucent pattern effects, whereas in the 3,li58,l92 Patented Oct. 16, 1962 ground of the woven or knitted fabric, after washing and/or steaming in the relaxed state, the yarns regain their bulk, i.e., the ground retains its original opaque character.

The local fixing can be carried out so that the textlle fabric can be treated with a hardenable substance in a pattern before or after the stretching, and in the stretched state heated to above C. to cause such fixation. Suitable hardenable substances .are, for example, thickened aqueous solutions of Water soluble resin precondensates, i.e., of urea-formaldehyde or melamine formaldehyde precondensates. Other suitable hardenable substances are N-substituted urea formaldehyde resin compositions such as ethylene urea, dioxy ethylene urea or N,N'-bis (methoxy-methyl)uron and tetrahydro-l,3-bis(methoxymethyl)-5-methyl-2(1)-s-triazone as described in United States Patent No. 2,373,135. Further suitable as hardenable substances are etherified aminoplasts dissolved in organic solvents, i.e., urea-formaldehyde ether resin or melamine formaldehyde ether resin, or mixed resins of these resin types.

The stretched state of the textile fabric can, moreover, be pattern-wise fixed by local application of heat and pressure i.e., by means of heated embossing rollers.

The term fixing agent as used in the appended claims designates agents such as referred to in the two preceding paragraphs.

The textile fabric is .advantageously impregnated before stretching with a water soluble finishing agent, i.e., starch or polyvinyl alcohol, and dried after the stretching. By these means the entire fabric is temporarily fixed in the stretched state. After the local permanent fixation the finishing agent is washed out.

Moreover, the fabric that has been pretreated with the finishing agent, stretched and dried, can be locally treated in a pattern with an agent to make the finishing agent water-insoluble, and by this means local permanently fixed patterns can be produced. By the use of starch or polyvinyl alcohol as finishing agents, these can be made locally insoluble by treatment with aqueous solutions of formaldehyde and an acid catalyst, and subsequent heating to over 100 C.

The invention is further explained by the following examples:

The stretching of the various fabrics herein below mentioned will vary depending on the construction of the fabric and the degree of the reversible extensibility of the crimp yarn forming same. Suflicient stretch is given to practically straighten out the crimp of the yarns in order to render them thinner and to remove the bulk.

Example 1.-A fiat tricot, produced from a crimped 40/2 denier polyhexamethylene adipamide yarn with high reversible extensibility, is stretched, and is printed in the stretched state with the following mixture:

Melamine formaldehyde-butyl ether-resin 60% in methanol 900 Butyl acetate '60 Butanol 30 Nitrocellulose medium viscosity 10 Subsequently the fabric is dried under tension, then heated for 4 minutes at C. in order to harden the printed portions. The fabric is then allowed to relax. It is scoured for 15 minutes at 60 C. in a bath containing 1 gr. per liter of a non-ionic washing agent, i.e., an alkyl phenol ethylene oxide condensation product, rinsed and dried under little tension.

One thus obtains slightly stiffened, more or less trans- 70 lucent pattern effects, depending on the type of design,

on a dense fiat ground.

The highly extensible crimped yarn was produced by plying two yarns of polyhexamethylene adipamide which were temporarily high twisted in opposite directions and heat-set in the high twisted state. The yarn has a maximum elongation of about 350%.

To determine maximum elongation a length of about 30 centimeter of the completely crimped yarn is suspended on one end and preloaded with 0.002 g. per denier for 2 minutes, whereupon the exact length (x) of the preloaded yarn is measured. The yarn is now loaded with 0.8 g. per denier for two minutes and then the length (y) of the so stretched yarn is measured. The maximum elongation in percent is calculated according to the formula below:

Example 2.Flat warp knit fabric of crimped 40/2 denier polyhexamethylene adipamide yarn (crimped yarn produced as described in Example 1), with high reversible extensibility (maximum elongation of the order of 350%) is impregnated with a 2% solution of polyvinyl alcohol, and dried under tension. The fabric is then printed with a mixture of Urea-formaldehyde-butyl ether-resin 60% in butanol 800 Modified castor oil softener 125 Glyptal resin 75 Gr. Water-soluble methyl cellulose 25 Formaldehyde conc. techn. 40% 190 Ammonium chloride powder '10 Water 775 After the printing the fabric is dried, cured for three minutes at 140 C., and allowed to relax, then rinsed in warm water and dried under low tension. Similar effects are achieved to those in Example 1.

The crimped yarns with high reversible extensibility were produced by high twisting, heat-setting and detwisting smooth multifilarnent yarns of E-caprolactam polycondensate. The yarn has a maximum elongation of at least 200%.

Example 4.A flat tricot, as in Example 1, is scoured in a bath containing 1 gr. per liter of non-ionic washing agent for fifteen minutes at 40-60" C., rinsed with Water and dried under very low tension. Then the fabric is printed in the contracted state with the melamine formaldehyde butyl ether resin described in Example 1, then immediately stretched in the length and width, dried and cured in this stretched state and allowed to relax. The scouring and drying proceed as in Example 1. The product is like that of Example 1.

Example 5.A flat tricot produced from a highly extensible crimped 75/2 denier yarn of polyethyleneglycol terephthalate, is prefinished with a 2% polyvinyl alcohol solution and dried under strong tension in width and length directions Then the fabric, while in stretched condition, is printed with a mixture of Gr. Water soluble methylcellulose 40 Dimethylolethylene urea 180 Ammonium chloride powder Water 770 dried under tension, cured at 150 C. for two minutes, allowed to relax, washed in a soap bath at 40 C., and rinsed in soft water and dried under light tension.

The result is a fabric with slightly stiffened, open printed portions on a closed ground.

The crimped ply yarn was produced from two polyethyleneglycol terephthalate yarns which were crimped by temporarily high twisting and heat-setting in the high twisted state, the two ply components being temporarily highly twisted in opposite directions. The ply yarn had a maximum elongation of about 200%.

Example 6.-A fiat tricot of high extensible crimped 40/2 denier yarn of polyhexamethylene adipamide (crimped yarn produced as described in Example 1) is pretreated with a 2% potato starch paste, dried under tension, and then while stretched printed with a mixture of 2 /2 minutes and allowed to relax. Then the goods are washed in a warm soap bath, well rinsed with soft water, dyed with dispersion dyestuffs, centrifuged, and dried under slight tension. The result is a striking pattern effect on a dense ground.

Example 7.-A woven fabric made of highly extensible crimped yarn of 70 denier of polyhexamethylene adipamide both in the warp and filling in a loose construction, is scoured in a bath containing a non-ionic washing agent, then dyed with the use of acid dyestuffs, prefinished with a 2.5% solution of a modified starch, and dried under tension in both the warp and filling directions. The fabric is printed, dried, cured as in Example 5 and then allowed to relax. The washing and finishing are carried out according to the procedures described in Example 5. The effects are similar to those in Example 6.

Example 8.A fabric containing in the warp denier cuprarnmonium rayon crepe yarn and a highly extensible crimped yarn 40/2 denier of polyhexamethylcne adipamide in the filling, is prefinished with a 2.5% solution of a modified starch and dried under tension. The fabric is printed, dried, cured as in Example 5 and allowed to relax. The washing and drying is carried out as in Example 5. The result is a fabric with a slightly stifiened, open print pattern on a dense ground. An interesting enrichment of this article can be achieved when it is dyed with acid and substantive dyestulfs so that the cuprarnmonium rayon yarn and the crimped yarn are dyed in diiferent color shades.

Example 9.A fiat tricot made of crimped polyhexamethylene adipamide yarn 40/1 produced by fixing in a stufi'ing box in a strongly compressed state is printed in a pattern while stretched to its maximum extensibility with a mixture of then it is dried under tension, heated to 140 C. for three minutes to harden the print and allowed to relax. The fabric is rinsed with warm water, and subsequently dried without tension. One obtains an effect similar to that in Example 1. The crimped yarn used for the manufacturing of the above mentioned flat tricot has a maximum elongation of about Example 10.A flat tricot made of polyhexamethylene adipamide yarn crimped by pulling it over a sharp edge is printed, dried, heated, allowed to relax and rinsed and again dried, as described in Example 9.

Example 11.A fine knitted fabric consisting of alternating courses of 30/1 denier polyhexamethylene adipamide crimped yarn with S and Z torque is produced.

The fabric is then prefinished with a 2%% polyvinyl alcohol solution, dried under tension and then printed while stretched, dried, cured, allowed to relax, washed, rinsed and loosely dried, as in Example 5. The result is a patterned knitted fabric with translucent areas. The crimped yarns are produced by temporarily high twisting respectively in S and 2 direction and heat-setting in the high twisted state.

Example 12.A flat tricot as in Example 1 is stretched, and while stretched is locally pressed by an embossing calender at 220 C. with a roller pressure of about 50 kg./ cm. and allowed to relax. Then the goods are scoured at 4060 C. in a bath containing 1 gr. of a non-ionic washing agent, rinsed with water and dried in a loose state. One so obtains translucent jacquard-like patterns on an opaque background. The threads in the pattern areas are thinner and less bulky than in the background.

Example 13.-A woven fabric containing in the warp and filling crimped hexamethylene adipamide yarn of 70/2 denier with high reversible extensibility is impregnated with a 1% polyvinyl alcohol solution, dried under tension, and subsequently locally pressed while stretched as in Example 12, at elevated temperatures, allowed to relax, scoured, rinsed, and subsequently dried under little tension as descirbed in said example. The result is also jacquard-like patterns like Example 12.

In the drawing accompanying this application and forming a part thereof, I show an extensible textile fabric composed of crimped polymer yarns. This fabric has been stretched, and the pattern thereon has been permanently fixed in accordance with the invention.

In the drawings:

FIG. 1 shows a fabric made of such extensible yarn, which is a crimped nylon yarn made in accordance with Example 1 above. The fabric is shown stretched lengthand width-wise, and printed with a hardening coating thereto applied; and

FIG. 2 shows the so-printed fabric after heating to harden same, whereupon the fabric is relaxed.

Referring to these figures, the numeral 1 designates the background of the fabric, and 2 represents the patterned areas. As indicated in Example 1 the highly extensible crimped threads forming the fabric are composed of two 40 den. yarns having been temporarily high twisted in S and 2 direction respectively and heated while in the high twisted state.

The fabric consisting of the above highly extensible yarns is stretched lengthand width-wise, in accordance with the arrows shown in FIG. 1. In this stretched condition the fabric is printed with the composition mentioned in Example 1 above, and while so stretched is then heated and otherwise treated as in said Example to produce the pattern 2. After such treatment the fabric is relaxed, and appears as in FIG. 2.

It will be noted that in FIG. 1 the background 1 of the stretched fabric is shown in extended form, and is a little lighter than the pattern 2 itself. The reverse is shown in FIG. 2, where the background 1 is bulky and less translucent than the printed pattern 2.

I claim:

1. A process which comprises stretching a fabric containing stretchable crimped synthetic polymer yarn, sufficiently to cause the threads of said fabric to become thinner and lose bulk, and permanently fixing the so stretched fabric in a pattern by locally pressing and heating the fabric and relaxing the fabric to produce a patterned fabric in which the threads in the pattern are thinner and less bulky than the threads in the background of the fabric.

2. A process which comprises stretching a fabric containing stretchable crimped synthetic polymer yarn sutficiently to cause the threads of said fabric to become thinner and lose bulk and printing same while so stretched with a hardenable lacquer-like coating substance, heating the so printed fabric to harden said substance to perma- 6 nently fix the stretched threads in the pattern, and relaxing the fabric to produce a patterned fabric in which the threads of the pattern are thinner and less bulky than the threads in the background.

3. A process which comprises stretching a fabric of stretchable crimped synthetic polymer yarn sufficiently to cause the threads of said fabric to become thinner and lose bulk and printing same while so stretched with a thickened solution of a water-soluble resin precondensate, heating the so printed fabric to harden said precondensate to permanently fix the stretched threads in the pattern, and relaxing the fabric to produce a patterned fabric in which the threads of the pattern are thinner and less bulky than the threads in the background.

4. A process in accordance with claim 3 in which a water-soluble urea-formaldehyde precondensate is used.

5. A process in accordance with claim 3 in which a water-soluble melamine formaldehyde precondensate is used.

6. A process which comprises stretching a fabric of stretchable crimped synthetic polymer yarn sufiiciently to cause the threads of said fabric to become thinner and lose bulk and printing same while so stretched with a thickened solution of an N-substituted urea-formaldehyde resin composition heating the so printed fabric to harden the resin composition to permanently fix the stretched threads in the pattern, and relaxing the fabric to produce a patterned fabric in which the threads of the pattern are thinner and less bulky than the threads in the background. I

7. A process which comprises stretching a fabric of stretchable crimped synthetic polymer yarn sufiiciently to cause the threads of said fabric to become thinner and lose bulk and printing same while so stretched with an aminoplast ether resin dissolved in organic solvents, heating the so printed fabric to harden said resin to permanently fix the stretched threads in the pattern and relaxing the fabric to produce a patterned fabric in which the threads of the pattern are thinner and less bulky than the threads in the background.

8. A process in accordance with claim 7 in which an urea-formaldehyde ether resin is used.

9. A process in accordance with claim 7 in which a melamine formaldehyde ether resin is used.

10. A process which comprises impregnating a fabric of stretchable crimped synthetic polymer yarn with a water-soluble finishing agent, stretching said fabric sufficiently to cause the threads of said fabric to become thin ner and less bulky and drying said fabric, printing same while so stretched with an agent rendering the finishing agent water-insoluble to permanently fix the stretched threads in the pattern and relaxing the fabric to produce a patterned fabric in which the threads of the pattern are thinner and less bulky than the threads in the background.

11. A process in accordance with claim 10, in which the finishing agent is polyvinyl alcohol which is rendered water-insoluble by treating with an aqueous solution of formaldehyde and an acid catalyst and subsequent heating to over C.

12. A process which comprises stretching an extensible textile fabric, containing stretchable crimped synthetic polymer yarn, sufiiciently to cause the threads of said fabric to become thinner and lose bulk, applying a fixing agent in a pattern thereto to permanently fix the stretched threads in the pattern, and relaxing the fabric to produce patterned fabric in which the threads of the pattern are thinner and less bulky than the threads in the background.

13. A process which comprises stretching a fabric containing stretchable crimped synthetic polymer yarn, sufiiciently to cause the threads of said fabric to become thinner and lose bulk, and printing same while so stretched with a hardenable printing mass in a pattern, heating the so printed fabric to harden the printing mass to permanently fix the stretched threads in the pattern, and relaxing the fabric to produce a patterned fabric in which the threads of the pattern are thinner and less bulky than the threads in the background.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,265,082 Heberlein May 7, 1918 8 Grninder June 30, Clavel Feb. 9, Heberlein June 21, Finlayson et a1. May 14, Lyem Mar. 30, Headon Oct. 30, Ginzel Apr. 21, Moore June 5, Parker et a1. Oct. 8, 

